End of part 1

Kennedy Meadows South marks the close of Southern California and our 45 day walk through desert country.  Winter rain and snow created a flower garden for the 702 miles since we left the Mexico border.

Variability has defined the 140 miles since the last post – hot, cold, dry, big climbs, forest, grassland, shrubland, big views and amazing mornings/evenings.

We also made a big decision – to skip over the Sierras for now and walk northern California before returning to Kennedy Meadows South in early July. Much rapidly melting snow remains in right through the Sierras. Postholing and swollen streams might have compromised our enjoyment of this iconic place. So the decision was taken. I might never get back here and I want to properly immerse.

We have hitched the 500 miles to Belden where the PCT crosses Highway Ca70. The rides were fun and we met enriching people. Past PCT hiker, working artist, and generational locals. All shared stories, knowledge and extended genuine friendship.

Tomorrow we commence the walk through Norcal into southern Oregon. The first climb is 4,700 feet. Ouch in anticipation.

Wind machines

Tehachapi is an interesting town. It is at about 4000ft elevation surrounded by 6000ft ranges and wind turbines – hundreds of wind turbines. We walked for a day through fields of giant fans mounted on giant towers. Proof that they know how to do things really big in the USA.

Again local generosity is always close by. Car rides to and in town have simply materialised. Locals have stopped to pick us up, take to where we are going and often back again.

En route to Tehachapi from Hiker Heaven we stopped at Casa de Luna and Hiker Town. The latter was like the a miniturised town from Westworld.

Casa de Luna was amazing. Camping is in a maze of trails set in a forest.  There could have been 30 other tents the same night we stayed each in in its own special enclave. All hikers were fed abundant “taco salad” in the evening and pancakes for breakfast (we had 6 each). The host greats all hikers with a cuddle and invites them to create a painted tile and place it somewhere to surprise or amaze later hikers. It was a special world existing in its own dimension.

Another hallmark was walking along the LA Aqueduct. At first this was interesting but after 17 miles any interest had completely gone.

Otherwise walking at 6,000ft was sometimes cold, sometimes wet, sometimes windy (think Beaufort gale) and sometimes perfect. Oh and we crossed the San Andreas fault for the third and final time.

We are at mile 566 and are approaching the southern Sierras way too soon for this year’s massive snow too have reduced. From mile 702 we might skip forward to northern California and come back to walk the Sierras in July. We have 140 miles or 7 days to think about it.

500 miles

 

High Desert.

Much of the past week has been spent between 6,000 and 9,000 feet. Standouts for me were wild flowers, recent snow and burned pines. Too much elevated pine forest has been burned.

Atmile 454 the high desert country is now behind us.

Tonight we camp at hiker heaven. Donna and Jeff Saufley turn their Agua Dulce home into a haven for PCT through hikers. Shower, internet, laundry, device recharging, kitchen, chooks, dogs and even haircuts are presented with kindness and 5 star hospitality.

Onwards tomorrow into the hot dessert.

 

 

Mile 369

We have met some great people on and off the trail. Where ever we go local people are curious about PCT through hiking and the back ground to people who do it. They are also amazingly generous. When leaving Big Bear a couple opened conversation with us while in the hardware store then drove us to the grocery shop then came back 3 hours later to drive us 10 miles back to the trail. Tonight we are hosted in a private home in Wrightwood with three other hikers (we got off the top of the mountain just as cold snowy weather arrived).

Our hosts tonight are proud that their house straddles the San Andreas fault. Hope it holds on just a bit longer.

Other hikers are friendly and supportive to each other sharing to cover shortfalls (mostly blister cures or food). Mostly everyone is curious about each other.

Speaking of food – hiker hunger has kicked in big time. Food is consumed often, in large amounts and increasingly with a sense of desperation. Towns are great for food. Hiker hunger was anticipated but I did not expect the glee of getting to town where I can eat all I want.

Since Big Bear we walked elevated deserts, through lots of recent fire and consequent flower gardens and crossed under a MAJOR transport corridor.

 

 

 

 

Highs and lows

The 86 miles from Idyllwild to Big Bear Lake led us up three 1000m+ ascents, a 2000m descent, 9000ft to 1200ft to 8700ft, snow covered trail and a hot dry dusty industrial landscape. The marks of recent fire were never far away.

Winter snow is still too deep on San Jacinto and San Gorgonio for peak bagging without crampons. We have past both these 10,000 footers by. These are mountainous landscapes with excellent trail access. The folk from Southern California have been given a wonderful gift.